Joined: Jan 18, 2018 10:07:10 GMT 10
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Post by spog on Oct 10, 2018 20:15:52 GMT 10
So after yrs of gunna do it, build a keezer I got my arse into gear and got stuck in. All the timber used is salvaged Oregon and I intentionally left the nail holes etc to give it an aged look. The freezer on the base with heavy duty rubber wheel castors. I  Gluing the corners and setting up the facade.  thumb.ibb.co/btPfzU/DEED177_B_6_D8_F_455_E_B35_D_3750_CEBED24_B.jpg[/imgThe facade taking shape , machined the edging for the top and having a little drinky poo.    The 2 sides and front , brass mesh panels around the bottom with old beer labels behind glass. The backing is 6 mm MDF covered with metallic copper contact , the labels where glued on with dons of glue to hold them in place. Not coated and the top not made at this point.    The top fitted and clear coated , sides , front and kick boards/ base attached.     This I as far as I’ve gotten to date , I have some brass foot rail brackets and a length of copper pipe to use as the foot rail setup. I’ve built a mock-up of the brass and copper font I’m building for the keezer out of PVC pipe, I’m chuffed with results this far.
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labels
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Joined: Jan 30, 2018 20:18:39 GMT 10
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Post by labels on Oct 10, 2018 20:47:13 GMT 10
Impressive!!!
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Joined: Jan 8, 2018 20:22:57 GMT 10
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Post by DCB on Oct 10, 2018 20:58:51 GMT 10
Awesome but the pic confuses me. What is that screen?
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Joined: Jan 18, 2018 10:07:10 GMT 10
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Post by spog on Oct 11, 2018 6:48:43 GMT 10
The screen is brass fly wire, I built the keezer from gear I had/ collected or salvaged over the past 5 or so yrs. My original plan was to basically build a box around it ,but worrying about ventilation/circulation around the keezer i was going to add a small fan or 2 to help, then I remembered I had the brass fly wire so I modified the build to what it is now. I sprayed the freezer with brass paint , the bottom half anyway, as it showed too much being white.
Next step is to hit up a few Plumbers I know for a 600 mm length of 60-70 mm copper for the cross bar of the font, I have the other 2 pieces salvaged from a demolition yrs back, 100 and 38 mm respectively.
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Joined: Jan 18, 2018 10:07:10 GMT 10
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Post by spog on Oct 11, 2018 7:03:02 GMT 10
The basic idea  The mock-up made from PVC pipe.  The mock-up and the 2 pieces of copper I have.  The narrowest piece has a polished brass base plate commonly used as a handrail base. Im after one to suit the large pipe, 102mm in diameter, I’ve seen them on pipes of around 80 mm but have been unsuccessful in locating one. Frustratingly I’ve Emailed businesses but got no replies, perhaps they don’t need my money! Can anyone help ? or know of someone in the bar building business//restaurant fit outs who may be able to help? Prolly be exy but if attainable it’ll match the smaller one nicely.
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Joined: Jan 8, 2018 14:52:26 GMT 10
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Post by laxation on Oct 11, 2018 8:16:12 GMT 10
I love the idea of the beer labels, adds a real nice touch to it. The whole thing is very original & cool
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Joined: Dec 27, 2017 7:14:47 GMT 10
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Post by Grott on Oct 11, 2018 8:19:49 GMT 10
Looks great, must get to Lincoln, prawns, oysters and spog’s beer at the keezer bar, foot on the rail. Now that sounds nice.
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Joined: Jan 8, 2018 14:52:26 GMT 10
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Post by laxation on Oct 11, 2018 8:49:38 GMT 10
Can anyone help ? or know of someone in the bar building business//restaurant fit outs who may be able to help? Prolly be exy but if attainable it’ll match the smaller one nicely. pneutapper does - but he hasn't been around much lately...
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Joined: Feb 4, 2018 6:15:31 GMT 10
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Post by feralbass on Oct 11, 2018 18:19:10 GMT 10
Looks great!
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Joined: Jan 18, 2018 10:07:10 GMT 10
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Post by spog on Sept 18, 2019 21:34:26 GMT 10
Added some more over the last 2 1/2 days. I sorted what I think suits my beer font build regarding cold air recirculation.    The pvc model of the font is in the background, I’ve used this to sort bits and pieces before I tackled the final design. Im using copper pipe for the air cooled font because I have a heap of it and it’s a good conducter/or. The cooling pipes are over 1 metre in length but at the outlet a match will be blown out at 180 mm from the outlet, given that the cooling setup will be fixed to the underside of the keezer lid with an open pickup/intake I’m really happy.
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Joined: Jan 18, 2018 10:07:10 GMT 10
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Post by spog on Sept 18, 2019 21:41:32 GMT 10
Drilling, filling and hoping it works....or I don’t fk it up. Ive had some of these pieces of copper stashed away for quite some time ( demolition salvage ) so I’m taking it slowly, measuring 20 times then checking again before committing to a cut or drilling.  
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Joined: Jan 18, 2018 10:07:10 GMT 10
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Post by spog on Sept 18, 2019 21:56:29 GMT 10
A few more pics. The mounting plate on the rhs and the ‘knob’ on top are polished brass bar rail attachments.....will match nicely with the taps. I have 2 metal polished brass plates for the main ( lhs ) column. Lhs column = 102 mm o/d Centre pipe, where the taps will be mounted = 62 mm o/d...umm could be 64 mm ? And the rhs upright is 38 mm o/d.    Really enjoyed the last 1 1/2 days f,ing about with this. Ive made some running modifications to the cooling setup as well as the overall finished dimensions today , I’ll post more pics etc tomorrow.
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Joined: Jan 18, 2018 10:07:10 GMT 10
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Post by spog on Sept 19, 2019 10:48:44 GMT 10
The cooling air outlet/return , this will protrude back into the keezer and hopefully circulate the air inside to keep the temperature even.  Reducing the diameter of the main cooling pipe so I can fix an elbow in place allowing for the restricted room inside the 38mm pipe.  predrilled and fitted and joined with 6 gauge screws, in the final install I’ll put a light smear of silicone on all the joints. 
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Joined: Jan 18, 2018 10:07:10 GMT 10
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Post by spog on Sept 19, 2019 10:53:26 GMT 10
A couple of pics showing the holes inside which allow me to fit the cooling pipes and screw the joints together, also fit the internal insulation. Also the 6mm all thread which holds the joins together.  
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Joined: Jan 18, 2018 10:07:10 GMT 10
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Post by spog on Sept 19, 2019 10:59:17 GMT 10
The main base/mounting plate with wooden inserts, the cooling inlet pipe and beer lines comes up through the lid, base plate and wooden inserts. The inserts fix to the base, the base to the lid and the main upright to the wooden inserts.  
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Joined: Jan 18, 2018 10:07:10 GMT 10
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Post by spog on Sept 19, 2019 11:04:28 GMT 10
The top cap, an MDF copy of the metal disc, the metal disc will be screwed to the MDF and covered with the dome nuts. The insert then screwed to the main pipe to hold it in place.  I’m not happy with the finish on the MDF so I’ll paint it copper to match a bit better. 
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Joined: Jan 18, 2018 10:07:10 GMT 10
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Post by spog on Sept 19, 2019 11:11:27 GMT 10
The finished look minus the top cap on the lhs, I haven’t decided on the final height yet so I’ll cut it later.  I’ll silicone the dial thermometer in place after the final install. Also the copper end caps once the cooling pipes and insulation is done, I’m planning on using white insulation as I consider it to be more effective than other colours, hope they make a white pool noodle! 
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Joined: Jan 18, 2018 10:07:10 GMT 10
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Post by spog on Sept 19, 2019 11:16:24 GMT 10
A walking stick head piece that kinda, sorta looks like a hop cone. I was going to fix it on top off the main pipe cap but I think it’ll be too much.  The engraved name plate. 👍 
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Joined: Jan 18, 2018 10:07:10 GMT 10
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Post by spog on Sept 19, 2019 11:20:42 GMT 10
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Joined: Jan 18, 2018 10:07:10 GMT 10
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Post by spog on Sept 19, 2019 11:24:43 GMT 10
3 brass plates I’m considering using to mount the 3 taps to the font,easily removed to allow fitting the beer lines, insulation and taps.  The 3 taps will be evenly spaced across the front, 130 mm centres. Although the keezer holds 6 kegs I’m only fitting 3 taps. 
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redbaron
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Post by redbaron on Sept 19, 2019 11:25:50 GMT 10
Beautiful mate. Are you going to finish the copper with anything to keep it shiny, or leave it as is for the rustic look?
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Joined: Jan 18, 2018 10:07:10 GMT 10
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Post by spog on Sept 19, 2019 11:30:41 GMT 10
Beautiful mate. Are you going to finish the copper with anything to keep it shiny, or leave it as is for the rustic look? For the final fit I’ll polish it up with a very fine grade of sandpaper then zap it with a metal lacquer, I was told to use a spray called Incralac ? I’ll double check when the time comes.
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redbaron
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Post by redbaron on Sept 19, 2019 11:32:14 GMT 10
Nice- shiny copper is beautiful
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Joined: Jan 18, 2018 10:07:10 GMT 10
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Post by spog on Sept 19, 2019 11:35:11 GMT 10
So this is where I’m at atm, nothing more will be done for 3 - 4 weeks as I’m waiting on the taps to arrive as well as organising other bits and pieces.  I also better get my arse back on track and finish the renovations now that I’ve had a break and some me time. 🍺👍
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Joined: Dec 28, 2017 10:39:33 GMT 10
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Post by davidm on Sept 19, 2019 13:06:13 GMT 10
This is already looking shmicko. Well done.
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Ben
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Post by Ben on Sept 19, 2019 17:46:55 GMT 10
Excellent work.
Adds another reason to head across to Lincoln
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labels
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Post by labels on Sept 19, 2019 19:07:53 GMT 10
Steampunk look - I like it!
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Joined: Jan 9, 2018 9:12:06 GMT 10
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Post by seehuusen on Sept 19, 2019 20:31:50 GMT 10
Looks amazing!!
As an old bartender, that worked in an all copper bar I for one can wouch on getting something that retaines the shine, like a metal lacquer. IT'S A LOT of work to maintain shiny if you dont have something like the lacquer!
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Joined: Jan 18, 2018 10:07:10 GMT 10
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Post by spog on Sept 20, 2019 8:12:34 GMT 10
Steampunk look - I like it! Yep, some of that Steampunk gear is really cool I did think about adding something similar but back away the end. Some of the designs that got me thinking in the beginning.      
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Joined: Jan 18, 2018 10:07:10 GMT 10
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Post by spog on Sept 20, 2019 8:14:34 GMT 10
Steampunk look - I like it! Steampunk kegerator/keezers.    
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